Campo de’ Fiori: Rome’s Most Sinister Square?

Campo de Fiori street sign
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Location iconRome, Italy

Seriously Scary Rome Ghost Tour

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Nestled between the Baroque churches and fountains of Piazza Navona to the north and the high Renaissance Piazza Farnese to the south, Campo de’ Fiori is one of Rome’s most scenic squares. By day, the piazza bustles with a daily farmers’ market that sets up every morning from Monday to Saturday. After dark, it becomes one of the trendiest hangout spots in Rome, drawing tourists and locals alike with its range of restaurants, cocktail bars, and terraces.

What the Italians call La Dolce Vita (“the sweet life”) can best be felt in Campo de’ Fiori around sunset. But its cool, convivial atmosphere masks a dark and disturbing history. For this square was once one of the main landmarks in medieval Rome where you really did not want to end up.

Origins

In ancient Rome, Campo de’ Fiori was unused space between the Theatre of Pompey and the flood-prone River Tiber, which cleaves the city in half. Little is known about this area from antiquity, but frequent flooding seems to have dissuaded the ancients from developing the area. 

We first hear the name Campo de’ Fiori (meaning “field of flowers”) in the Middle Ages, suggesting that by this time this area was a meadow. Other theories suggest that it may have taken its name from Flora, a lover of the late-Republican general and Julius Caesar’s rival Pompey Magnus, whose theatre ran adjacent, or to a woman named Terenzia, who is said to have left this field to the Roman people and instituted floral games there.

In the thirteenth century, Rome’s powerful Orsini family established themselves on the south flank of this area. But until the fifteenth century, the square remained undeveloped. A place of worship would predate the piazza: the Church of Santa Brigida, which was built during the pontificate of Boniface IX (1389–1404) and now faces onto Piazza Farnese. 

External view of the Church of Santa Brigida in Piazza Farnese

External view of the Church of Santa Brigida in Piazza Farnese

Campo de’ Fiori took on its current architectural form in the fifteenth century. In 1456, Cardinal Ludovico Trevisani paved the area under the patronage of the Borgia Pope Callixtus III as part of a project to improve the rione Parione (Rome by this time was divided into 13 rioni, or districts; today it is divided into 22). This renewal was both the result and cause of several important constructions in the surrounding area: not least the Orsini palace on Campo de' Fiori and Palazzo della Cancelleria, a building belonging to the Holy See which Vasari’s etching shows rising beyond the far right corner of the square.

Etching of Palazzo della Cancelleria bordering Campo de' Fiori by Giuseppe Vasi

Eighteenth-century etching of Palazzo della Cancelleria, which borders Campo de' Fiori, by Giuseppe Vasi

Many cardinals lived in grand residences on Campo de’ Fiori, its popularity owing to its proximity to the Vatican, and the square also featured on the route of every procession to the Papal Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. The Holy Roman emperor Charles V even passed through it during his grand entrance into Rome in 1536. To accommodate these pilgrims and passers-by, many inns sprung up around this area. One, the Hotel Sole on Via del Biscione, still exists today, and many believe it was built using parts of the Theatre of Pompey.

Campo de’ Fiori served several purposes throughout the Middle Ages. Horses and donkeys grazed here for the Saturday and Monday horse and grain market, which took place here until the early nineteenth century, and the square was also on occasion used as a racetrack. But it was for something far more sinister that the square would come to be best known. 

The Dark History of Campo de’ Fiori

For centuries (until the late nineteenth century in fact), this square was the site of public executions. Here, on 17 February 1600, the philosopher Giordano Bruno was burnt alive for heresy, his works placed on the Holy See’s (Vatican’s) Index of Forbidden Books. His crime had been to challenge the Church’s orthodoxy that the Earth was at the centre of the universe. Even by the standards of the time, his execution was especially grim. Stripped and gagged so he could not speak, he was hung upside down and set on fire. 

Learn more about Giordano Bruno on our Rome Ghost Tour

Giordano Bruno was not the only figure burned here for heresy. The Archbishop of Split, Croatia, Marco Antonio de Dominis was also publicly incinerated on a pyre, together with his works, in the middle of Campo de’ Fiori. The big difference was that de Dominis had been dead for three months, passing away during his confinement in Castel Sant’Angelo. By the order of the Inquisition, on December 21st, 1624, his corpse was pulled from his coffin, dragged through the streets of Rome, and burned in the centre of the square. 

Giordano-Bruno-statue-in-Campo-de-Fiori

Statue of Giordano Bruno in Campo de’ Fiori

In July 1659, five women were sentenced to death for selling or administering the notorious arsenic-based poison Aqua Tofana. (The story of Giulia Tofana, the poisoner who freed more than 600 women from abusive relationships, becoming one of history’s earliest serial killers, is a fascinating read). These five women were executed in Campo de’ Fiori, but an inscription on their tombstone at San Giovanni Decollato proclaims their innocence:

"Domine, dum veneris indicare, noli nos condemnare."
(“Lord, when You come to judge, do not condemn us.”)

Public executions were not the only form of oppressive ‘entertainment’ to grace the square. On September 9, 1553, the first day of the Jewish New Year, the Holy See burned copies of the Jewish Talmud on a pyre created in the centre of the square. A bronze plaque (pictured below)) commemorates this event, quoting a Talmudic description of the martyrdom of Rabbi Hananiah ben Teradion, who was burned alive wrapped in a Torah scroll during the reign of the emperor Hadrian.

Plaque commemorating the burning of the Talmud in Campo de Fiori in 1553

Plaque commemorating the burning of the Talmud in Campo de Fiori in 1553

Campo de’ Fiori in Recent History

The demolition of a block of housing in 1858 enlarged Campo de' Fiori, and since 1869 it has hosted a daily vegetable and fish market that was previously held in Piazza Navona. A replica of its ancient cattle fountain (one of more than 2,000 fountains in Rome) known as la Terrina or the "soupbowl" was installed in 1889 and is now used to keep cut flowers fresh. Its inscription: FA DEL BENE E LASSA DIRE ("Do good and let them talk") suits the gossipy nature of the marketplace. 

Nowadays, Campo de' Fiori is a popular square for pre-dinner aperitivo, a nightlife hotspot, and meeting place for tourists and young people coming from all parts of the city. 

How to get to Campo de' Fiori

Campo de' Fiori is about as centrally situated as it gets (hardly surprising given it was a place of public execution and so had to be easily accessible for all). It's just a five-minute walk from most of Rome's main monuments (the Pantheon, Piazza Navona and Teatro di Torre Argentina) and a 10-minute walk from neighborhoods like Trastevere and the Vatican City.

Campo de’ Fiori is not connected to a metro line, so you'll either want to get the metro to Colosseo or Spagna and take a meandering walk through the historic center or get a bus or tram into the center (Piazza Venezia or Largo di Torre Argentina) and head here on foot.

Check out our guide to getting around Rome

What to do in Campo de’ Fiori

The Daily Farmers’ Market

Campo de’ Fiori hosts a daily open-air market, the largest and most central in Rome’s centre. It’s open from 7 am until 2 pm, with some stands staying open a little longer.

To be honest, today’s market mostly caters to tourists and passing trade. Many of its stalls have become gimmicky, or sell stuff you can find elsewhere for a fraction of the price. That said, it’s still worth visiting, especially for fresh produce and products if you want to cook back in the apartment. And if you get here in the morning, around 9 or 10 am, you can still feel a local buzz.

Fresh flowers at Campo de' Fiori farmers' market
Local produce at Campo de' Fiori farmers' market

Fresh flowers at Campo de' Fiori farmers' market


Local produce at Campo de' Fiori farmers' market

The 'Monk Statue' of Giordano Bruno

In the center of Campo de' Fiori stands the statue of Giordano Bruno, the Dominican friar, philosopher and mathematician who was executed here in 1600. Immortalized in bronze by Ettore Ferrari in 1889, his dark and brooding figure stands facing the Vatican and embodies all the historic martyrs who were executed on this site for daring to defy the church. 

By no coincidence is his statue the meeting point for our Rome Ghost Tour

Restaurants

Our favourite restaurant on Campo de’ Fiori is La Carbonara, a typical trattoria that has been going since 1912. It serves typical Roman fare, hearty pasta dishes and meaty mains, in an unassuming, homely atmosphere, and has al fresco seating options or two floors indoors. 

Nearby Roscioli bakery does some of the best pizza bianca in Rome and is a must-visit if you’re in the area. For fans of Roman street food, try Dar Filettaro: a tiny hole-in-the-wall place that specialises in deep-fried baccalà (salted codfish)

Learn to make pizza on a cooking class in Rome!  

For lovers of cured meats and cheeses, check out Norcineria Viola, which claims to have been open and under the management of the same family since 1890.

Bars

Those looking for an evening aperitivo or after dinner nightcap have plenty of choices around Campo de’ Fiori. The Drunken Sailor is one of many Irish pubs in Rome where you can grab a pint and watch a sports match on a big screen. We also like Taba Café: a more upmarket cocktail bar and a great place to grab an outdoor seat or sofa and watch the world go by. 

Surrounding Streets

Given its location between the river and the city centre, Campo de’ Fiori square has always remained a focus for commerce. Many of its arterial surrounding streets are named after trades, especially textiles, that sprung up around here. Among them are

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Alexander Meddings
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Alexander Meddings is a professional copywriter and postgraduate in Roman history from the University of Oxford. After graduating with his MPhil, he moved to Florence and then Rome to carry out his research on the ground and pursue his passion at the source. He now works in travel, as a writer and content consultant, and in education as a university lecturer and translator.
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